![]() Roman ruins, half-finished concrete structures, modern military bases and refugee camps dot the highway. The harsh, landscape tells the story of past and present civilisations who have tried to tame it. ![]() This is Jordan's Black Desert, also known as Harrat al-Sham, a frontier in more ways than one. A few minutes down the road was the Azraq Wetland Reserve and the Shaumari Wildlife Reserve, where we mingled with gazelles and watched military cargo planes fly over the horizon. Suddenly, a military drone zoomed overhead, perhaps on its way to surveil a battlefield somewhere in nearby Iraq or Syria. ![]() The rolling hills of the Levant had turned into a flat, black volcanic desert. We were 30km out of Qasr Mushash, an ancient Roman frontier post on the eastern outskirts of Amman and the site of Jordan's proposed new capital.
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